Thursday 30 October 2008

Brisbane-Byron Bay-Sydney


[Sydney from space- the A points at the city center: click picture for enlargement]

Dear All!

After Noosa I traveled to Brisbane where I have spent a couple of days with a Dutch friend [Merel] I have met along the way. Brisbane is quite a nice city- even though many people try to convince me otherwise. It has a nice breeze [thanks to the big river curling trough it] and some very interesting architecture, like for instance the State Library of Queensland. This is a renovated building on the banks of the river that really embraces the Queensland climate. The architects have almost created an 'outdoor' library; they have generated many generous and pleasant outdoor spaces where visitors and passers-by comfortably mix and enjoy a book.

After the hectic traveling of the last few weeks [Whitsundays/Hervey Bay/Fraser/Rainbowbeach/Noosa] it was very nice to just enjoy a glass of wine, a book, a night in the cinema and a chat in the park.

After Brisbane I have traveled to Byron Bay- a famous backpackers-destination with a very good surf. I stayed there only a couple of days, mainly walking a bit and reading [The Kiterunner- what a great book!]. I also enjoyed some nice seafood restaurants. Everybody told me that Byron Bay absolutely rocked, but I found it rather small and calm... but probably I have missed something. Although I probably only missed a couple of nice clubs/bars.

But I had to keep traveling. I had booked my flight from Sydney to Melbourne already, so I had only 4 days left to visit Sydney.

Sydney was the first Australian city that really felt like a real global city. This had the feel of a New York, a London or a San Francisco to it. I really loved Sydney. It's amazing how the whole city is facing a couple of see-arms that run trough the city. It feels like this city has a big public square in its center. On nice day's it is full of little [sail]boats and ferries. Also the operahouse was extremely interesting! I couldn't believe I was finally seeing [and entering for I have gone to watch a Palestinian play there one evening] this architectural icon. I thought I would be disappointed but it was very interesting [beauty is such a subjective thing and doesn't really interest me in this case]. It felt like a dream, walking around it, or taking the ferry to one of the suburbs and passing it by boat.

Along with top-class galleries and museums, Sydney has very pleasant [and hip] characteristic suburbs. I visited Manley and also Bondi Beach [by taking the ferry from the city-center]. There was a sculpture exhibition along the coast near Bondi Beach [which was a bit to crowded for me that Saturday] and so I spent one afternoon walking a big chunk of the coastline, going from beach to beach. So nice how almost everybody in Sydney lives 'by the sea'!! Really, people, if you have the chance, visit Sydney once.

Then I flew to Melbourne to go and find a job. I am staying with Dennis, Matt and Merrin again- it's so much fun! They are sooo nice!

Talk to you soon.

Bas.

THE PICTURES

Tuesday 28 October 2008

Whitsundays- Fraser Island- Noosa


[Whiteheaven Beach on Whitsunday-Island: click picture for enlargement]

Hello People!

Sorry for letting you wait for so long. I've been traveling- the east coast is like a roller coaster!

After Prosperpine, where Leanne was working, I returned to Airlie Beach. Airlie Beach is the main port for boats sailing to the Whitsunday Islands. These are a couple of amazing islands with great snorkling, wildlife (tropic forrest, sealife, etc) and beautiful beaches! I did a 3-day, 2-night trip there. Just check the pictures at picasa. In reality it is ofcourse 10x better.

I was on a very small sail-boat called 'Silent Night'. Only 12 people could be on board. Typical backpacker-party-boats normally hold around 20-30. I was on a small boat to get a real sailing adventure. It was a nice mix of people: a 70year old South African woman with her 50-something year old daughter (amazing, they were so nice and taking care of us), a couple of younger girls (English and American, very nice and a bit alternative/artifarty) and a german couple. And there were a Canadian woman (50's) and a scottish woman (end '30s). Fortunately the skipper and his mate were man aswell, so it was balanced out a bit.

It was just SUPER! Jack (the deck-mate) noticed I liked the sailing and explained a lot to me and let me help in running the boat. I absolutely loved it. Fortunately we had great sailing weather: sunshine and a nice breeze. I loved loved loved it! So cool when your boat is plowing through the water in a 45degree angle! I was even allowed to steer the boat for a while! I am addicted.

One evening we were having dinner on the deck while anchored in a little bay when we suddenly heard: ppssshhhhhh. A singel dolphin has hunting the little fish that the deck-light attracted! Just one or two meters from our boat. It spent at least 20min diving down and coming up again.. the light reflecting on her silver body while she was down in the dork waters... how cool is that! Our skipper (sailing the Whitsundays since 14 yrs) had never seen a single female alone, hunting at night near his boat!

One of the days we visited an island with an amazing beach; Whiteheaven Beach. Just check the pictures.. I can describe it! Heaven on earth. And so many fish and rays and little sharks in the shallow waters.. just incredible!

After the Whitsundays I travelled to Harvey Bay. This is the main gateway to visit Fraser Island. Fraser Island is the biggest sand-island in the world and is one big nature reserve. It has many different types of forest (even rain forest) and an incredible amount of species of wildlife (among them the famous Dingo's which I haven't seen). What I did see: Sharks, sea turtles, 1m jellyfish, dolphins, whales, flying possums (looks sort of like flying "eekhoorns"), rays, beautiful sweet-water fish, etc. Bloody amazing. I was on a guided tour which used a sort of Paris-Dakar 4WD bus. It was soo cool. And met amazing people again (from Brazil (Carolina you're amazing!!), Liege, France, England, Kosovo). On the island there are a couple of amazing fresh-water lakes which were great to swim in!

After Fraser Island I spent a couple of days in Rainbow Beach and traveled (all the time with Greyhound bus) to Noosa. In Noosa I stayed at one of the most amazing hostel's ever. A traditional 'Queenslander" (local historic building). And I did a canoe-trip in the wetlands just north of Noosa. 3 days of canoeing: I saw some river-sharks, some big iguana's (sort of lizards), kangaroos and a swimming Tigersnake! Awsome!

It was with a small group; we got 5 canoes for 10 people. With tents and food and sleepingbags we set out and canoed up the river for a couple of hours and made a camp there. The second day we canoed further upstream to visit a big sand-dune in the middle of the National Park. It was like a desert! And that amidst so much green forests and swampy lakes. Incredible.

What a trip this has turned out to be! It is hard to explain how good it was. I hope the pictures do a better job at that than me! And then: I am only giving you a short version of it!

THE PICTURES

Thursday 9 October 2008

a critical note


[picture stolen from Mark Pynn]

After all the positive messages and my great travel-adventures, now I have some critical notes on my travels, just to share my thoughts with you. ‘Cause not everything is here ‘rozengeur en maneschijn’ [smell of roses and moonlight].

TRAVELLING
First, some note on the traveling. I must say that traveling is sometimes quite tiring. I have met soo many people over the last 4 months, and many of them were very interesting. However, often conversations don’t get much further then: “hey where are your from? Where’ve you traveled? Where are you gong? Blabla.” And that everytime, over and over again… gets a bit tiring. Furthermore, most people are typical ‘backpackers’… I would say, rather young boys and girls that don’t really know what they want in life. And that’s all fine, offcourse, it’s great that they came here to find that out, but I don’t have very much in common with them, for I know very well what I want in life. Also, they seem very happy to not live under their parents supervision, sometimes for the first time in their lives. In their joy that seem to forget however that other then their parents there are other people on the planet who’s needs and wishes one should respect aswell- that is to say: if you want to secure yourself a spot in heaven after this lifetime.

Hostels are very funny things. Sometimes you are in a 8-bed dormitory, while in one of the beds, in the middle of the night, two people are ‘having fun’ with eachother. Or you have gigantic snorrers- people that chop down the entire ‘Swarzwald’ in a night’s sleep. These people snore so badly they should have a red stamp in their passport or hostel-card so that they can all be put together in one room… it’s just insane that these people come and sleep in a dormroom and then prevent 7 people from catching any sleep at all! And then there are the sanitary units. Sometimes showers in hostels are so, freakin dirty, or old and falling apart, that after showering you just don’t dare touch anything. I remember sometimes not wasting my towel on my feet- I would just walk along barefoot until they had dried up… really people, some hostel-showers are amazingly dirty! And, somehow, most people seem not to really care about others: the sounds of people clearing their throats, or going to the lue, is sometimes simply horrific- especially when you've just woken up.

One last traveling thing that is quite annoying is that since Australia is so gigantic, and because some areas are either only accessible by 4WD or because it is to dangerous to just go their by yourself, many things-to-see in Australia are very touristy. They are “small” pockets in gigantic deserts of nothingness, so it’s the place where everybody goes. And sometimes, one can only visit these [national parks] only along the tourist-tracks. These tracks are the only ones there, the rest of the parks is plain inaccessible [accept if you are the Crocodile Hunter], so again: this is where everybody goes. You don’t have deserted beaches for you alone to dip-in [sharks, jellyfish, croc’s] as Titi and I had in Greece, or small river-pools to relax in [snakes, croc’s]. It is really difficult to be alone and enjoy things in your own way.

AUSTRALIA
Then, Australian culture has some strange things. I mean, off course I look at the world through the eyes of a critical architect, but still.

For example, I think there are no people on the planet more dependent of car-transportation. To get around in Australia, one just needs a car, and preferably a 4WD. And then they complain about the gasoline, but one liter here cost’s about 0,70euro! The reason for this car-dependency is the space-use. All Australian families live in gigantic houses, that are all detached 1-floor [bungalow] houses. This not only means they use a lot of resources [four facades to keep the sun+heat out or the heat inside] but it also means Australian cities are incredibly stretched out... very very big cities. I think Melbourne is bigger than Paris, but has only 1/3 of it’s population! One of the problems of these kind of cities is that public transport is very difficult to maintain and quite expensive [km’s commuted per user]. Which off course means- more car-dependency. Stretched-out cities also means traveling by bike is time+energy consuming, and you don’t just walk here or there… I read that Australians are the fattest people in the world, even more so than Americans, and regarding their car-dependency and their amazing craving for fat-food [anglo-saxon cooking] this might be true.

The food thing is also something that stings: they have the most marvelous stuff swimming around- huge quantities of scallops, crayfish, lobsters, crab, crustaceans, mussels, clams, etc. But I guess 75% of it is fried like fish and chips!! Even scallops! That’s just sacrilegious!

The last thing before I stop complaining [hahaha] is the weather. Melburnians complain “it’s cold” when in the middle of the winter, daytime temperatures might vary between 5*c and 20*c! But in general, most places in Australia have very nice weather year-round. I mean, most of the east coast has year-round 20*-35*, even in winter! That might seem very nice at first glance- but aren’t autumn with it’s chilly and frsh mornings and colouring leaves, or spring with it’s crisp rain showers and blossoming trees very nice sometimes? Or the white landscapes of winter and cookies+tea at home?? Well, they don’t have it! It’s the same; sunshine and palmtrees year in year out, day in day out. It gets boring- believe me.

So you see, eventhough the amazing landscapes, the stunning wildlife and the fantastic endless nothingness are great to experience, every place but home has it’s drawbacks…

But I am loving my trip so don’t count on me complaining much more- I will stay here for a while longer!

PS By they way, the aboriginal people’s position within this culture is shocking. I learned that the difference in life-expectancy between native people and the new settlers’ [people of western decent] is the greatest in the world! Bigger than for instance in South-Africa or North-America or even South-America. This says a lot about their socio-economic integration.

Aboriginal people are very much struggling with fitting into the new Australian culture while at the same time adhering their own, older culture. It is simply shocking to see, that after all those years, there seems to be no understanding, no solution, no dialogues to resolve this problem… aboriginal people are are very poor, marginalised and helpless culture, on a deserted island in an ocean of white Australians.

Bas.